Off we went back out to the country for a 30-minute drive, which was a very pleasant respite in itself. Heading toward the next stop on our tour, we arrived for a 1½ hour visit with the manufacturer of Cognac’s alembic pot stills, Alambic Pruhlo, and their Commercial Director, Philippe Tizon. Walking in and observing from a distance for the first couple minutes, we learned that the artisanal method of building them from scratch hasn’t changed in close to 200 years. Though all stills are made from intense manual labor, there’s something to say about that homemade feel in the end product.

Hammering into shapes and design sizes for the different parts involved is a precise and methodical process. Stills are made of copper, and all the copper used in production comes from Chile. The ability of making the copper, and therefore the still, a very pure piece, is obtained by electrolysis, treated to tighten its pores, increase its mechanical resistance, and make it smoother and easier to clean. The smoothening out of even the slightest inside bumps, again with a gentle but strong finesse with the hammer, is essential in the overall completion of each piece. Years of experience helps to feel where to gently hammer when you can’t always see where you’re hitting.

The bottom pot is 12mm thick, for a good quality of heating. The middle and top dome of the onion-shaped still is 3mm thick. All in all, this results in a better quality product and eau-de-vie. Put together by two rows of rivets very close, the holes are drilled about 1-1¼ inches apart. Then you have the condensor, the connector tube, and the serpentine copper cooling coils. They first finish the full assembly here at the main production plant, then do the liquid testing at both extreme temperatures, as water quality is very important to the spirits. From there, they dis-assemble, ship by truck to the distiller/client, then re-assembled on site. Each alembic pot still system costs approximately 100,000 euros. Thanks to Philippe and his impressive and patient working staff, for allowing us in to observe and learn during their regular, daily production load.

On our way back into town, we spirits travellers arrived at the next and final stop for the day, at the estate of Courvoisier Cognac. Welcomed by Trade and PR Manager, Jennifer Szers-novicz, and Director of Operations, Patrice Pinet, we were given keys to check into our rooms and to meet back downstairs in 30 minutes for the start of the tour and tasting. Very nice accommodations, and again I had a corner room, with a beautiful overlook of the Charente River.

We started out with a walk-through of Courvoisier’s museum section, where you see many old tools and artifacts used in the past. What I noticed at the far end of the room was a large glass-encased sample of an in-depth look at the chalky, rocky, limestone earth where the grapevines are nurtured for Cognac. Yet, the specific grape varieties of mostly ugni blanc and maybe a small amount of colombard are what work best for the aging into Cognac, as they have good levels of acidity and are low in alcohol content. Sauvignon blanc and chardonnay grapes don’t work well for aging as a Cognac, as it loses some essence and quality, where as the ugni grapes hold up better. To go slightly one step further, during the early crushing and de-stemming phase, some brands choose to keep some grape leaves in during the process, depending on blending preferances. Courvoisier is contracted with about a thousand independent vine growers in the region, growing grapes for their brand. Now that’s what I call working with the community !

Especially interesting was the section they had on Napoleon himself, including a dresser, clothing, shoes, and a small bed used during the war. Being the creator of the “Napoleon” quality Cognac, a scaled down version of the bureau along with a bottle of a special Napoleon blend that fits inside, has been produced as an exclusive gift package. A superbly attractive specialty item. From the museum we walked down and around to the beautifully-lit barrel aging rooms, turned a corner and stepped into a special sitting room for a video presentation, with this unique oval-shaped viewing screen. A first time for everything !

After the viewing we followed Patrice upstairs to another part of the estate, the Courvoisier tasting room. Enjoying samples of six different house Cognacs, Patrice led us through and explained the tasting notes and qualities unique with each aging, from rancio, V.S., V.S.O.P., Exclusive, Napoleon, and XO Imperial. I remember certain flavor aromas on the nose that brought back distant memories from my childhood, something familiar from the past that I can’t quite put a word on. It must have been an earthy quality that connected to the farm I was raised on as a child. Trees, woods, tall grass, the lake, the soil, the fields, the sky. For me, going to Cognac was in many ways, going back home to where it all began.

The great thing about all of these brand tastings is, we we get to familiarize ourselves with the characteristic differences between them as well. Recognizing the master blenders as the architects of their brand’s individual quality and distinction, painting a landscape of flavor and aroma for the palate, and to enjoy the history and passion with this “spirit of the soul”, Cognac. Blend – Color – Aroma – Body – Taste – Finish . . . . .

Heading back, we made a stop into the sun-filled blending room for a few minutes, where the light was right for the guys from Grape Radio to conduct another of many important and necessary interview sessions for their documentary work in progress. Such a great team we were to tour together from our three different areas of work within the industry, as it allowed the five of us the opportunity to learn a little bit from each other’s work. I noticed some bottles thay had on a counter where the labels were upside down. Patrice informed us that the U.K. bars use 1.5L bottles in their massive liquor trees, upside-down of course. Made sense now !

Enter paradise. Jay Selman of Grape turned the magic key and we entered into Courvoisier’s cellar of the old. In here, the past is alive and well ! Dark, musty, humid. Perfect resting place for these rarities. There are bottles here in their paradis, from 1783. The room is also filled with oak casks and demi-johns. If there’s anyplace where cobwebs can be cool and groovy, it’s here.

Our tour ended, and we headed to the downstairs bar and lounge area in a main lobby, where the house bartender mixed us up a couple different Cognac cocktails for the 7 o’clock hour. Getting back to our rooms to freshen up and a change of clothes, we headed down a floor in the elevator to our table of seven set in the main dining room. Four-course meals to this degree is new for me, much less every day on the trip, lunch and dinner. The meal was excellent, and very appreciated. Bravo to the chef, waiter, and bartender. We enjoyed each other’s company and conversation over those two hours, sharing thoughts and observations, with interesting questions too. Later with Cognac in glass, we moved over to an adjacent room for relaxing a bit. A piano was in the distance, and the space was filled with beautiful furniture, interesting objects, and many other collectible luxuries, reminding one of walking into an antique store. A very charming room. There was another early morning coming around, so after a while I headed back up to the room to get in some serious snooze time, as my normal night hawk hours were turned around a bit.

Day 3

Heading out with our guide during the day, Beatrice Bernard, we snuck in an early morning visit on our itinerary to an independent vine grower in the Cognac region. Michel Guilloteau comes from a family of winemakers and growers who’s soil is full of limestone, essential to produce Cognac. They have been in their village since 1744. Jay and Mark set up in one of the very clean rows in his fields of green and conducted a great interview session. Michel spoke very little English, so Beatrice stood close by for translation, and Eric and I shot some photography of the lush hectares from a distance. Though Michel loves tending to his fields, there are no relatives who wish to take it over when he retires. So he continues . . . . . Cheers to him !