Christina DiMartino
"I wish I had a steer with ten tails,"
says Michael Lenagar, president and CEO
of the family-owned and family-operated
Neola Farms in Brighton, Tennessee. That's because what are known as the
lesser cuts—meat taken from the extremities
and underbelly of the animal—are selling fast.
"All chefs want are lesser cuts, including oxtail,
short ribs, skirt steaks, flank, and liver." Forty years ago, this trend would not have been
particularly newsworthy. Back then people used every part
of an animal. An economic boom in the 1980s and 1990s
increased the demand for luxury ingredients. High-end
cuts were cherished while lesser cuts were ground, stewed,
and marinated until they were nearly unrecognizable.
Many chefs avoided the lesser cuts altogether because of
their association with low-end restaurants.
Award-winning freelance writer
Christina DiMartino's byline
appears more than 100 times
annually in national and foreign
periodicals and newspapers. She
writes on a wide range of topics,
including food, ecology, nutrition,
health and fitness, sports, art,
travel, and business. Christina
divides her time between New
York City and Catania, Sicily
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