By Rob Costantino
Santé Managing Editor
Napa Valley's rich wine history began in 1838 when George Yount planted
cuttings of Mission grapes on a small section of his expansive tract. But Charles Krug might be considered Napa's first man of wine.
He made Yount's wine and, in 1861, his first Napa wine under
his own name. In A Companion to California Wine, noted wine
historian Charles Sullivan writes of Krug, "He is remembered
today for his great estate and its wines, but his friends, neighbors,
and associates in the industry knew and loved him for qualities
not measured in gallons or acres. He was the conscience of his
winemaking community, a pillar of constant integrity, and a
steady voice in favor of higher standards and better quality."
Krug embodied a way to conduct business that took hold
in the many Napa family wineries that followed. Some of the
great Napa wineries that thrived as family businesses—Beaulieu
Vineyard, Beringer, Inglenook, and Larkmead, to name four—eventually passed from family control, and three of Napa's iconic
wineries that were established during the region's modern
era—Robert Mondavi Winery, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, and
Duckhorn Vineyards—are no longer family operations.
But for every Napa Valley winery that is no longer family-run,
there are many more that remain in family hands or have
recently been established as family-owned and family-operated
enterprises. All have a compelling story to tell about their
business and their wines. Santé presents thumbnail sketches of
six Napa family wineries that operate as Charles Krug once did—with a special blend of pluck, talent, hospitality, and vision.
PDF Version>>