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On the Road Again

A couple of years ago, after a visit to Château d’Yquem during primeurs week, I was telling a friend of mind, a collector with a keen palate and a cellarful of Yquem, about the new vintage and the details of my visit.  “Of course,” I said when I finally slowed down, “you’ve probably been there dozens of times.” “Never,” he replied.&nbsp

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