When I was invited recently to visit the Euganean Hills as an adjunct to Vulcania 2012, a conference in the town of Soave about wines grown on volcanic soils, I must admit I had never heard of it. Or them. So I pulled down my 10-year-old version of the Oxford Companion to Wine to look it up. It wasn’t there! Silly me – try the Italian name, “Colli Euganei.” It stil
