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Food

What Are We Supposed to Think About Shrimp?

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 1:40pm
Americans eat more shrimp than ever before. But a cloud hangs over much of the global industry that produces it, with questions about labor practices and sustainability.
Categories: Food

Classic French Fare at Brasserie Saint Marc in the East Village

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 1:20pm
The latest from Joaquin Baca of Teo and Brooklyn Star, a former White House pastry chef’s first restaurant, and more restaurant news.
Categories: Food

Kee’s Chocolates Opens a Shop on the Upper West Side

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 12:40pm
After shuttering its garment district shop, the chocolate company has a sliver of a storefront uptown.
Categories: Food

Babs, a European Grill Where Sparks Fly

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 11:32am
At Babs in Greenwich Village, the menu rubs Spanish, French, Mexican and other cuisines together to see what happens.
Categories: Food

Shrimp and Chemicals: What You Need to Know

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 11:30am
What exactly is added to shrimp, and how can you avoid it at the store?
Categories: Food

Next-Gen Urban Creamery

Planet Cheese - October 15, 2019 - 11:00am

What good is cream cheese without bagels? The folks at Tomales Farmstead Creamery had the cream cheese down but couldn’t find a worthy bagel to spread it on. At least that’s the nickel explanation for their leap into the bagel business, with an ambitious new bakery-café in San Francisco. The sprawling former factory they rented was big enough for a little cheesemaking, too. So now San Franciscans have their own urban creamery whipping up cultured butter, cream cheese, quark, ricotta and ghee. Plus warm bagels. And craft beer. Hungry yet?

Daily Driver debuted in June in Dogpatch, a trendy neighborhood rapidly transitioning from light industrial to a creative hub. Open for breakfast and lunch, the bakery serves custom-built bagel sandwiches, bagel dogs, grilled-cheese bagels (who knew?) and a few items—like quark bowls, lobster rolls and kale salad—that rarely share a table with bagels.

The space is light-filled and inviting, a modern bagel manufactory, with the wood-fired ovens visible and pumping out bagels all morning. David Kreitz, an industrial designer and partner in the business, designed the interior, built the ovens and devised the bagel recipe. (Renaissance man.) His wife, Hadley, oversees the creamery production, working in a glassed-in room so patrons can watch her transform milk into butter, cream cheese and quark.

The organic milk for all this dairy goodness comes from pasture-raised Jersey cows in Marin County. Straus Family Creamery buys from the same farm, and I know how picky Albert Straus is. This milk is off-the-charts rich, yielding cream that’s averaging 70 percent fat. That is unreal. Typically, heavy cream is under 40 percent fat. Hadley says the winter butter is the color of the shop’s bagel bin.

Hadley makes cultured butter twice a week, culturing the cream for about 36 hours, until it reaches a target pH, then “curing” it in cold storage for about a week. It is practically butter already when it goes into the churn along with 2-1/2 to 3 percent Himalayan salt. In about two minutes, the deed is done, the cultured cream separated into waxy butter and watery buttermilk.

Working with a few pounds at a time, Hadley weighs out half-pound chunks and then shapes them entirely by hand—first kneading them like clay to eke out any remaining buttermilk, then slapping them rhythmically with ridged paddles into uniform slabs. “I’ve been practicing for years and years,” says Hadley, who learned the technique from a Vermont woman who kept two cows.

Hadley wasn’t aware of another commercial hand-batted American butter, but a colleague told me that some Amish farms produce it. Certainly, it is a nearly lost art, time-consuming and painstaking. It takes her three hours to paddle 80 pounds.

A half-pound of Daily Driver cultured butter is $8 at the shop. At that price, I can’t afford to cook with it, but what a treat to offer dinner guests with fresh radishes and dark bread. The quark, cream cheese, ghee and some aged cheeses are also available in the shop’s retail case.

David Jablons and Tamara Hicks, who own Tomales Farmstead Creamery, are the Kreitzes’ partners in Daily Driver. They view this multi-faceted enterprise as a way to bring the farm to the city and give urbanites a closer look at how food is made.

Turkish Poached Eggs with Quark, Herb Salad and Chili Oil

I enjoyed this dish at Daily Driver and chef Martin Siggins kindly shared the recipe.

  • ½ cup Daily Driver Quark

  • ½ teaspoon chile oil

  • 2 eggs

  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

  • 1 sprig of fresh dill, finely chopped

  • 1 sprig of fresh mint, leaves roughly chopped

  • 1 green onion, thinly sliced

  • Cracked pepper and sea salt to taste

  • Daily Driver bagel chips

Whisk the quark in a small bowl for about 1 minute so that it is slightly whipped. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl. Drizzle chile oil over the quark in a swirl pattern.

Crack the eggs, putting each in a separate small ramekin. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, then add the vinegar. Stir the water to create a vortex, then slip the eggs into the center. Poach 3-1/2 minutes, then remove the eggs with a slotted spoon to a paper towel to drain for about 30 seconds. Nestle the eggs on the quark.

Top with chopped herbs and green onion, cracked pepper and sea salt to taste. Serve immediately with bagel chips.

Serves 1

Categories: Food

For Sondheim, Raúl Esparza Protects His Voice. For ‘Seared,’ His Fingers.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 9:54am
The actor, best known for “Company” and “Law & Order,” cooks, chops and sautés onstage as a finicky chef in Theresa Rebeck’s play.
Categories: Food

This Fungus Mutates. That’s Good News if You Like Cheese.

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 15, 2019 - 6:00am
American scientists set out to simulate a fungus’s evolution into the edible mold that makes French cheeses like Camembert.
Categories: Food

Pumpkin Seeds, Made in America

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:44pm
Stony Brook WholeHeartedFoods and Autumn Seed sell their pumpkin seeds to a variety of specialty food purveyors.
Categories: Food

Cook Dinner Like a Warrior

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:35pm
These new oven mitts from the Metropolitan Museum of Art look like the armor of a 16th-century duke.
Categories: Food

The Wild World of Natural Wine

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:34pm
The Wild World Fermentation Festival lands in Brooklyn with wines, ciders and beer from more than 50 producers.
Categories: Food

You’re Invited to This Questlove Party

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:31pm
In his new cookbook, “Mixtape Potluck,” the musician shares recipes from some of his celebrity friends.
Categories: Food

Bruce LeFavour, ‘a Good Cook,’ Dies at 84

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:26pm
As a restaurateur, he was in the vanguard of moving from rich French fare to more fish and seasonal, locally sourced fresh produce.
Categories: Food

The New Makers of Plant-Based Meat? Big Meat Companies

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 6:02pm
Tyson, Smithfield, Perdue and Hormel have all rolled out meat alternatives, filling supermarket shelves with an array of plant-based burgers, meatballs and chicken nuggets.
Categories: Food

Hey, Look! Nonna and Her Pasta Are on YouTube

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 3:43pm
A filmmaker is trying to preserve the art of handmade pasta by turning Italy’s Pasta Grannies into video stars.
Categories: Food

The Bar That Has Fed SoHo for Almost a Century

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 2:38pm
Fanelli’s, on the corner of Mercer and Prince Streets, is a bastion of old New York beloved by artists and tourists alike.
Categories: Food

Fondue Flavor, but Make It Pie

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 12:26pm
Yotam Ottolenghi’s love of wine and cheese leads to a pie inspired by fondue parties from long ago.
Categories: Food

Your New Monday Dinner

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 14, 2019 - 10:30am
Yewande Komolafe has an amazing new recipe for baked tofu with peanut sauce and coconut-lime rice that may just earn a place on your weekly rotation.
Categories: Food

What to Cook This Week

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 13, 2019 - 10:30am
It may be the day to make a quick vegetable paella, chickpea harissa soup or miso chicken.
Categories: Food

68 Soups and Stews for Sweater Weather

NYTimes Dining and Wine - October 12, 2019 - 10:30am
Vegetarian tortilla soup, old-fashioned beef stew and more recipes.
Categories: Food