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The Dozen - Beaujo Mojo

Even those wine drinkers who realize that Beaujolais is a lot more than its fast-acting nouveau, that Gamay grapes make very enjoyable table wines and that there are special wine villages there called crus, it may still come as a surprise that a few Beaujolais producers make red wines that are on a par and on a similar price level as some Côte d’Or Bourgogne produced a few miles up the road off A6.

Moulin-à-Vent is one of those cru villages, and Château du Moulin-à-Vent is one of the creams of the cru. Let’s taste a couple in this week’s dozen.

2018 River Road California Un-Oaked Chardonnay  ($14). Good apple-juicy flavors, but a little sweet. Don’t let Mom catch you drinking it for breakfast.

2018 Oberon Napa County Sauvignon Blanc ($18). Enjoyable tart green Sauvignon flavors layered with a creamy pear under-taste.

NV Cleto Chiarli “Enrico Cialdini” Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Secco ($17). Lots of bright red berry fruits narrowed down in the finish to savory notes and a crisp ending.

NV Graham Beck South Africa Brut Rosé ($18). Very nice – light strawberry fruit, good minerality, crisp finish.

2019 Inman Family “Endless Crush” Russian River Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir ($38). Lovely strawberry flavors with a crisp note of orange in the finish – good fruit, great acidity.

2017 Pasqua Veneto Rosso ($10). A carafe wine – raspberry fruity, slightly sweet, not much finishing acidity.

2016  Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza ($23). Beautiful purple fruit and barrel notes, but the structure is weak, and the finish is short.

2019 Flora Springs Napa Valley Merlot ($28). Fruity sweet with lots of cherries along with savory notes and a hint of cocoa.

2017 Château du Moulin-à-Vent Moulin-à-Vent ($37). An excellent Beaujolais – piquant nose and piquant cherry flavors (a little like a dark cherry in a really good Manhattan) and moderately light in weight and assertive in flavors.

2017 Chateau du Moulin-à-Vent “Champ du Cours” Moulin-à-Vent ($60). Very tangy and very tight – the tannins rule for now, but I’m willing to wait for this lovely wine.

2017 Clos Mogador “Gratallops” Priorat ($90). Somewhat fruit-forward with cherry creaminess, some savory notes and integrated tannins in the finish.

2015 Chateau du Moulin-à-Vent “Clos de Londres” Moulin-à-Vent ($100). Very smooth, rounded cherry flavors with great length and finishing acidity as well as pleasurable gripping tannins.


Prices listed are generally SRP or from wine-searcher.com.

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